Eat, Drink, and be Malbec

April 20, 2017 Caroline Shook

Since Monday was Malbec World Day, keep the celebration going and try one of these tasty recipes with your favorite Malbec.

Angulo Innocenti Nonni Malbec Bottle.jpg

Buscado Vivo O Muerto Los Chacayes Bottle.jpg

TintoNegro Limestone Block Malbec Bottle.jpg

One simple technique for pairing food and wine is to practice regional pairing. Having Italian food? Try an Italian wine. This certainly isn’t the only way to pair food and it’s not foolproof, but it’s a good template.

Since Malbec has really flourished in Argentina and become the signature varietal for the country, what better recipe to start with than steak—an Argentinian staple. At peak beef consumption in 1956, Argentinians consumed 222 pounds of beef for every man, woman, and child. Now Argentina hovers around roughly 120 pounds of beef per capita (compare that to US consumption rate of 79.3 lbs per capita and the fact only ten countries in the entire world consume 50+ lbs per capita).

SKIRT STEAK WITH CHIMICHURRI SAUCE

Continuing in our homage to beef-fanatic Argentina, GRIDDLED GAUCHO STEAK WITH BREAD-AND-BASIL SALAD is another excellent pairing with Malbec.

Moving away a little bit from the idea of regional pairing (but sticking with the carnivore theme), try a quintessential American cheeseburger. The lush Malbec will really bring out the flavors of this FAKE SHACK BURGER.

While instinctually Malbec and meat go hand-in-hand, don’t be afraid to try a vegetable dish, like this SWEET POTATO, BLACK BEAN, SPINACH QUESADILLA

Finally, one more veggie recipe for those not so Argentinian in their meat consumption habits. This AUBERGINE STEW from Jamie Oliver is a great meat alternative.

Dessert Wine Basics

September 1, 2016 Perry Riddle

In light of last weeks post on Port wines (and decadent dessert pairings), this week we wanted to follow up with some dessert wine basics. There are few pleasures in the wine world as hedonistic as a glass of great dessert wine. Whether it be a honeyed, complex Sauternes or a delicate, frizzante Moscato d’Asti, these wines provide pure guilty pleasure and when considering the work that goes into crafting them, they are some of the most intriguing wines in the world.

Simply put, dessert wines are wines where there is a degree of residual sugar that remains after fermentation. Generally wines in this category have 40 g/L or more of residual sugar and can soar to above 500 g/L in the most concentrated and rich examples. In order to halt fermentation and concentrate sugars and flavors either nature or man must introduce some variable into the winemaking process.

The four most common variables are:

Botrytis
Fortification by neutral spirits
Cold temperatures
Rasinating

If you mention dessert wine to the average wine drinker the first word that will generally come up is Sauternes. This golden elixir hails from the Sauternes region of Bordeaux and is the result of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon grapes affected by the fungus Botrytis cinerea.

Normally this would lead to gray rot, which is a major threat to grapes. However, if the exact right climactic conditions exist Botrytis (or noble rot or pourriture noble in French) has the magical effect of shriveling the grapes and concentrating the sugars to above 100 g/L. The resulting wines are honeyed and incredibly rich and complex. Notes of orange marmalade, pineapple, butterscotch, wildflower honey, and white chocolate ooze out of the glass and the best examples are a mélange of exotic, luscious flavors. These wines are some of the most expensive to produce in the world and in many vintages none are made, so expect to pay a premium for the experience of tasting one. Sauternes from the famous Château d’Yquem regularly fetch some of the highest prices in wine auctions around the world. Recently a half bottle of this wine from the 1811 vintage was sold for over $84,000.00!

Sauternes does not have a monopoly on noble rot though. There are also more reasonable examples in the style of Sauternes produced in the nearby regions of Barsac, Loupiac, Cerons, and Monbazzilac - if you’re lucky enough to find them, since they are rarely exported. There are also very similar examples produced in the United States, Australia, and other new world countries on exceptional sites in exceptional vintages. For other examples in France utilizing different grapes, look to the Loire Valley and Alsace and look for the term Sélection de Grains Noble. In the Loire Valley regions of Bonnezeaux, Quarts de Chaume, and Coteaux du Layon the grape of choice is Chenin Blanc. Noble rot turns this noble variety into a stunning nectar that is at once both viscous and light on its feet. Beautiful flavors of apple, stone fruit, and nuts marry with an intense florality to produce an incredibly rare and long-lived wine.

In Alsace the Sélection de Grains Noble wines lean towards heady and exotic aromas and tropical flavors due to the aromatic varieties grown there: Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Riesling. Expect to smell and taste exotic spices such as ginger, cardamom, nutmeg, white pepper, and allspice paired with flavors of mango, guava, lychee, pineapple, apricot, and quince. Once again expect to pay a premium for the rarity and exceptional experience of these wines.

Moving on to Germany, Austria, and Hungary and the wines that many would argue compete with Sauternes for the title of best dessert wine: Trockenbeerenauslesen and Tokajis. The Trockenbeerenauslesen wines of Germany and Austria are once again are the result of noble rot (Edelfäule) and are stunningly sweet and rich…much sweeter than Sauternes even. The purity and multi-faceted nature of these wines perfectly mirror the fact that they are most commonly made from Riesling.

In Hungary the historic Tokaji wine producers utilize native grape varieties such as Furmint and Hárslevelű to produce regal wines of astounding sweetness and concentration. The highest classification, Eszencia, can have sugar levels up to 900 g/L! King Louis XV famously referred to this wine as “the Wine of Kings, the King of Wines.”

Another method of production for dessert wine involves stopping fermentation by the addition of strong neutral spirits. This process allows for a high alcohol level unlike many other sweet wines and thus is referred to as “fortifying” the wine. Port, Madeira, and Marsala are probably the most famous wines in this category, and due to the complexities and culture of these wines, I’ll save them for their own discussions.

There are several wines produced in the south of France that fall into this category as well. These vins doux naturels are generally lightly fortified and the most famous examples include Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, Banyuls, Rasteau, Maury, and Rivesaltes. Grenache and Muscat are the key players with regards to grape varieties in these categories. The Grenache wines are quite varied and can be made in an oxidized style (rancio) and any range of colors from amber to ruby to almost black. The Muscats retain the aromatic character of the grape and are quite intense in flavor and aroma.

Icewine (Eiswein in German) is one of the rarest dessert wines. Grapes must be exposed to a hard freeze in order to freeze the water in the grapes. This process greatly concentrates the juice and reduces the amount of juice in each grape to mere drops. This stingy return paired with the fact that the grapes must be precariously left on the vines until sometimes after the new year often results in outrageous prices, but with sugar levels usually over 200 g/L one doesn’t need much of this treasure!

Germany is the spiritual home of icewine but Canada and increasingly New York also claim some exemplary examples. And while Riesling is the still the king of icewine, other traditional grapes such as Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay and hybrid grapes such as Vidal and Sevyal Blanc make convincing examples as well. Icewines can be surprising refreshing due to the exceptionally high level of acid that deftly balances the high sugar levels.

Finally, dessert wines can be produced by the process of drying and rasinating grapes either on the vine or after harvest. Perhaps the most famous example of this style is the straw wine (passito in Italian) Vin Santo from Tuscany. Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes are laid out on straw mats or hung in the rafters of the attics of wineries in Tuscany to produce a wine that is redolent of hazelnuts, toffee, nuts, and dried apricots. A similar method is employed in the Veneto to produce Recioto della Valpolicella, a velvety red dessert wine.

In Alsace the best plots are allowed to hang on the vine as long as nature allows to produce the exceptional vendanges tardives (late harvest) wines. These wines are concentrated and rich but are not cloyingly sweet. In the Loire Valley, this method is practiced as well with Chenin Blanc. One sees this method also used in the new world. Vin de Constance from South Africa is a notable historical example that has recently been revived.

Food Pairing

The general rule to follow when pairing sweet wines with desserts is that the wine must be sweeter than the accompanying dessert. The red dessert wines are great partners for berry desserts or chocolate desserts (they pair similarly to ruby or vintage ports). Riesling, Chenin Blanc, and Alsace varieties often pair well with apple and stone fruit desserts, while the more aromatic varieties (Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris) are beautiful partners to tropical fruit or exotically spiced desserts. For caramel, butterscotch, or nut-based desserts turn to Vin Santo or an amber Rivesaltes. Sauternes can often be challenging to pair with desserts but is a classic partner for foie gras.

Indeed many of these wines make beautiful pairings for rich savory foods with sweet elements or for ethnic cuisines such as Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Indian, or Middle Eastern. Don’t miss trying a classic duck l’orange with a smoky, sweet Pinot Gris vendanges tardives from Alsace! However, these gorgeous wines can stand on their own and be enjoyed as dessert in a glass.

Port 101 & Dessert Pairings

August 26, 2016 Caroline Shook

Salted Dark Chocolate Layer Cake with Chocolate Ganache

What is Port Wine!?

Port is wine that has been fortified with aguardente (sometimes referred to simply as “brandy”) during fermentation. The addition of high-alcohol brandy stops the fermentation process in its tracks, leaving a sweet wine that packs some power.

Port is a sweet wine with flavors of raspberry, blackberry, caramel, cinnamon and chocolate sauce. There are several different kinds of port, but two primary styles:

A red Port with more berry and chocolate flavors (and slightly less sweetness)
A tawny-colored Port with more caramel and nut flavors (and more sweetness).

Port must come from a specific region in Portugal, from grapes grown in steep, terraced vineyards along the Douro River. However, the word “port” is not a condensed version of “Portugal” but a reference to the port town Oporto, from where the wines are exported.

Tawny Port

Tawny is aged in wooden casks and released ready to drink. The best tawny ports are labeled with some indication of their age – 10, 20, 30 years old and so on. This is an average age because they are blends of different vintages.

Serve tawny port with chocolate, caramel, dried fruit, nuts (like walnuts and almonds), and aged Cheddar cheese.

Warre's Otima 10-Year-Old Tawny Port

“The non-vintage Otima 10-Year Old Tawny Port reveals a medium ruby/amber/garnet color, loads of kirsch and cedar intermixed with a touch of brown sugar in the nose, rich, full-bodied flavors, a burgeoning complexity and big aromatics. This is a full-bodied, silky smooth Tawny Port that should age easily for 8-10+ years.”

— Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 93 points

Pair with spiced cookies, gingerbread, almond cakes, or orange-scented desserts.

Warre's Otima 20-Year-Old Tawny

“This is a smooth and richly ripe wine. It has a dry character that brings out the wood aging and the dried fruit flavors that are well in balance. There is a tang of spirit that gives a lift to the wine. Acidity and a dry aftertaste complete an impressive tawny.”

— Wine Enthusiast, 92 points

Delicious paired with a creamy dessert such as cheesecake or creme brûlée.

Ruby Port

Typically the least expensive type of port. Ruby ports are blends of wine from different vintages. Rubies are usually sold after spending two or three years in large wooden casks. They are not intended to be cellared. Rubies have warm, berry flavors and deep ruby color.

“A rich and ripe style, with well-crafted flavors, of dark plum, raspberry and chocolate that offer good grip. The supple finish has smoky hints. Drink now through 2020.”

— Wine Spectator

Warre's Ruby Port: Enjoy with red cherries, chocolate desserts and fresh berry desserts.

Vintage Port

In years when the quality of grapes and the conditions in the vineyards are exceptional, grapes are set aside to make single-vintage port. Vintage port is a relative rarity, since few years are exceptional enough to be declared vintage worthy. Vintage port is labeled with a particular year, unlike most ports which are blends of various vintages. Vintage ports are big wines, with black-fruit flavors and powerful tannins when young.

“[The 2011 Vintage] Offers seamless flavors of kirsch, chocolate, dark plum and allspice, fresh and elegant, with a towering structure and intense red berry accents. Unctuous and long on the finish, showing loads of grip. Best from 2030 through 2060.”

— Wine Spectator, 96 points

“[The 2007 Vintage] I love the nose on this, with blackberry, black licorice, and dark chocolate. Full- bodied, medium sweet and very, very dense. What seductive mouthfeel, with polished, round tannins that caress the palate. This may be better than the fantastic 1994.”

— Wine Spectator, 98 points

Pair with something equally intense, like a rich, dark-chocolate dessert.

Sources: Here, here, & here.

Vineyard Pests and Pestilences

August 8, 2016 Perry Riddle

Mother Nature is rarely a predictable force, and that adage certainly holds true for winemakers. Beyond the travails of adverse weather, erosion, and climate change, there are myriad fauna and diseases that pose great risks for vineyards.

Discussed below are several of the most common, and problematic, pests and diseases in the vineyard.

Phylloxera

Perhaps the most infamous pest is the tiny aphid-like insect, phylloxera. Phylloxera wreaks havoc by:

attacking the root system of a grapevine,
cutting off the flow of water and nutrients,
eventually killing the vine.

In the late 1800s this tiny terror was transported to Europe from North America by well-meaning botanists interested in native American plants. Within 30 years, phylloxera had spread across Europe and devasted the non-resistant vitis vinifera grapevines planted there. Many researchers estimate that up to 90% of vineyards were destroyed during this time. Thankfully, at the end of the century scientists discovered that grafting vitis vinifera onto the naturally resistant rootstock of native American grape varieties stopped the spread of this plant lice.

While this method has remained largely successful for 100+ years, phylloxera still rears its ugly head occasionally, such as in California in the late 1980s. Researchers are continually developing new, more effective rootstocks to hopefully outmaneuver this tricky aphid once and for all.

Xylella Fastidiosa

Another family of insects, the sharpshooters, poses a great threat to grapevines as a primary vector of the bacteria, Xylella fastidiosa, which leads to Pierce’s Disease.

This bacterium causes a gel to form in the xylem of the vine, preventing water from being distributed throughout the plant. The resulting Pierce’s Diseases causes hydric stress, which can kill the vine in 1-3 years.

While the disease is endemic in northern California, it became a serious threat throughout the state with the discovery of the glassy-winged sharpshooter (native to the southeastern United States) in southern California in the 1990s. This species of sharpshooter has proved a much more effective transmitter of the baceterium than other native species. The wine industry of California’s South Coast was especially ravaged by Pierce’s Disease in the 1990s. Research has focused on breeding resistance into grapevines utilizing naturally resistant species of Muscadine grapes.

Oidium

Powdery Mildew or oidium is one of the most widespread fungal diseases of grapevines in the world. Caused by the fungus Uncinula necator, Powdery Mildew manifests itself as a grey-white powdery substance covering the vine. If untreated, there is the risk of serious crop loss and impairment of quality in the resulting wines. Fungicides and sulphur treatments are very effective against Powdery Mildew and planting vineyards in areas that allow maximum aeration is key to resistance.

Botrytis Cinerea

Finally, and perhaps the most intriguing of grape maladies, is infection by the fungus Botrytis cinerea.

In very wet conditions, botrytis presents itself as the devastating grey rot, which generally compromises the grape cluster.
However, if dry conditions follow wet conditions botrytis can have the magical effect of removing water from the grapes, resulting in some of the most legendary of all dessert wines, such as Sauternes from Bordeaux and Germany’s Trockenbeerenausleses.

Today in the viticultural world we are seeing an increased focus on organic and biodynamic practices resulting in stronger, more resistant vines. These practices combined with ongoing research promise a bright future for wine. However, in the end Mother Nature will continue to keep winemakers on their toes as she has throughout history.

Photo Credit // Here, Here, Here & Here.

Wine Serving 101: Temperature

May 23, 2016 Vineyard Brands

Generally

It is well-known that the ideal temperature for storing wine is 55°F or 13°C. What is a little less well-known is that there are ideal temperatures for serving wine also, but it varies according to the wine.

If you serve a wine too cool, the flavors of the wine will be hidden. If you serve a wine too hot, the alcohol becomes the predominant feature of the wine.

Ideal Temperatures

Below is a chart displaying the ideal serving temperatures for various types of wine along with some other common temperatures for reference. These temperatures are guidelines, not hard and fast rules. However, there are two things to note:

No wines should be served at room temperature, as it’s too hot.
No wine should be served directly from the refrigerator, as it’s too cold.

What It Preserves

Serving light, dry white wines and rosés at the appropriate temperature preserves their freshness and fruitiness. Serving sparkling wines at the correct temperature not only preserves their freshness, but also helps maintain more delicate bubbles.

Because sweetness is accentuated with warmer temperatures, chilling a white dessert wine helps preserve its balance without subduing its rich aromas.

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