An Insider's Look at Rosé

March 31, 2017 Caroline Shook

It’s hard to walk into your local wine shop or supermarket and not notice the stunning rows of jewel-hued rosés. And considering the boom in popularity that rosé has enjoyed the past several years, there’s a strong chance that these beauties ranging in color from the palest of pinks to outrageous magentas will be featured prominently. As we explored in a recent blog post, rosé has gone from being just another wine to a cultural phenomenon in a few short years. However, most people, even the most ardent fans, have little idea of rosé’s fascinating journey from grape to glass.

While researching this article, I was fortunate to speak with two winemakers very knowledgeable about rosé production, Chelsea Franchi of Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles, CA and Simon Batarseh of August Kesseler in the Rheingau region of Germany.

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It is a common misconception that rosé is made by simply combining red and white wines together. While this technically can occur, it is quite rare when making quality rosé. Franchi, who oversees much of the rosé production at Tablas Creek, started our conversation speaking about the two most common methods of producing rosé: saignée and direct press.

The saignée method involves bleeding off juice from red wine tanks before it has had a chance to take on too much color from the red wine skins (this process is called maceration). This labor-intensive method is interesting and controversial because it is often used as a way to enhance and concentrate the remaining red wine. Many rosé advocates consider it an affront to rosé because it is the by-product of red wine production. However, both Franchi and Batarseh praised this method for contributing intensity of flavors and for the amount of input they have while utilizing it. At Tablas Creek, the juice sits on the skins for approximately 24-72 hours before about 20% is bled off and subjected to a cold fermention. Most of this wine then becomes their serious, darker colored rosé called Dianthus (named for the flowers commonly known as “pinks”). Dianthus is generally Mourvèdre-based, a nod to the rosés of Southern France, specifically the Bandol area. Franchi attributes this wine’s watermelon essence to the Mourvèdre used in the blend. At Kesseler about 20% of the juice from wonderful up to 80-year-old Pinot Noir vines is bled off then fermented. Batarseh leans on this wine to contribute color and tannins to the final blend.

August Kesseler Pinot Noir Rosé bottle.jpg

The other common method of making rosé involves direct pressing of the grapes. This method is the most common and generally is considered the benchmark for crafting quality rosé. Both Franchi and Batarseh praised the fact that crop levels, sugar levels, acidities, and harvest dates can all be controlled in the vineyard and tailored to make the absolute best rosé. They both also press the juice off the grape skins without any maceration time resulting in a stunning pale pink color. Often you will see this wine labeled as vin gris. At Tablas Creek, this limpid direct press juice is destined to become their acclaimed Patelin de Tablas Rosé. Franchi said that they prefer to co-ferment their Grenache, Mourvedre, Counoise, and Syrah juice for this wine. This wine is definitely styled in the tradition of the great Provençal rosés with its dominant bright strawberry notes coming from the majority Grenache. At Kesseler the direct press juice is blended with the saignée juice for the final wine. Batarseh likes the interplay of qualities produced by using both methods, noting that the direct press juice brings a light, bright, acid-driven quality to the final wine.

Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Rosé 2016 Bottle.jpg

I asked Franchi what her favorite grape is to work with in the production of rosé. After some thought she answered, “Grenache,” and referenced the absolutely heavenly, heady aroma released by the vats of fermenting Grenache in the cellar. Indeed, when studying many of the great rosé-producing areas of the world, Grenache often seems to pop up. It makes sense when considering that Grenache is a very thin-skinned grape and overall has less color-lending phenolic compounds than other red grapes. Franchi also referenced the little-known Rhone Valley grape Counoise as contributing a nice softness and darker red fruit flavors to their rosés as well as those produced in Southern France. Often Syrah is also added also its wonderful spicy character.

At Kesseler, Batarseh works exclusively with Pinot Noir for rosé production. Once again we find a grape with thin skin and low levels of phenolic compounds. It’s no surprise that in most of the world’s great Pinot Noir regions there is also usually concurrent rosé production (think Marsannay in Burgundy, Oregon, Germany, and the Loire Valley). Producers in these regions get the dual benefits of producing a gorgeous berry-scented rosé and intensifying the often light juice destined for their Pinot Noir bottlings. At Kesseler, considered one of Germany’s premier Pinot Noir specialists, their rosé shows beautiful berry and cherry notes while maintaining an elegant and exciting tension. It’s definitely refreshing but has the stuffing for year-round drinking.

Next time you’re buying a bottle of rosé for the lunch table, pool, or just a summer evening with friends, talk with the wine specialist or turn that bottle over and read the back label. Besides the important visual clues from the color, you’ll gain some great perspective on what’s in a bottle by simply knowing how it’s made. And don’t be embarrassed for buying it!

As Franchi told me, “The stigma is over. Rosé is one of the most delicious, versatile, and food friendly wines out there.” Think pink!!

President's Day

February 20, 2017 Caroline Shook

Today is President’s Day and U.S. Presidents have a long history of supporting the wine industry at home and abroad.

One of the most legendary oenophile presidents was Thomas Jefferson. The third president of the United States served as ambassador to France where he developed a taste for French wines. As president he shipped 600 bottles of wine per year from France to the United States.

Jefferson also helped stock the wine cellars of the first five U.S. presidents. During his two terms in office it’s estimated he spent $11,000 (that's $175,000 in today’s dollars) on wine.

Two wines stand out as presidential favorites- Champagne and Madeira.

Madeira is a fortified wine produced on the Portuguese island of- you guessed it- Madeira. Its alcohol content hovers around 18-20%. This allowed it to withstand the trip across the ocean to the New World. In colonial days, nearly 25% of Portugal's madeira was shipped to America.

George Washington was an avid drinker of Madeira. In fact, it was used to toast his inauguration. Washington’s granddaughter reported the first president drank three glasses of Madeira after dinner every night.

The first father-son presidential duo--John Adams and John Quincy Adams --were also partial to Madeira. It is even rumored that during a blind taste test John Quincy Adams was able to correctly identify 11 out of 14 different kinds of Madeira.

While madeira lost its popularity over the years (but is making a comeback!), to no surprise, champagne has been a constant fixture in the White House. James Madison, John Tyler, James Polk, Ulysses S. Grant, William Howard Taft, John F. Kennedy, and Richard Nixon all had a well-known taste for the sparkling wine. The White House even boasts a champagne room. That's right, a champagne room.

Wine has been present at the most significant events throughout our country's history. Madeira was the founding fathers' drink of choice to toast the signing of the Declaration of Independence. The Louisiana Purchase was toasted with madeira and champagne.

Raise a glass and have a celebration of your own this President's Day!

Interested in trying some of these president-approved wines? We highly recommend Champagne Salon, Champagne Delamotte, and Miles Madeira.

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Grenache: The Pinot of the South

September 13, 2016 Caroline Shook

Grenache is a hearty, productive red grape popular in southern France (especially Southern Rhône) as well as in Spain, where it is called Garnacha. It is also grown extensively in Australia and the United states.

When fully ripe, Grenache features very fruity flavors — predominately strawberry — coupled with a fiery spiciness. Grenache wine styles can vary from light-bodied, delicious, fruity rosés to rich, red, table wines, to full dessert and fortified wines. Grenache produces powerful wine, but has a deceptively lighter color and is semi-transulcent.

Grenache Wine Regions France Spain Australia United States

Much of Grenache’s popularity is due to its bountiful growing habits in poor soils, particularly in warm, dry and windy climates. It buds early and, if left on the vine for late harvesting, it reaches high sugar levels. This allows winemakers to make high-alcohol wines. This growing strategy is another of the reasons for the grape’s versatility.

Due to its thin skin and pale color it is the most popular grape used in the production of rosé wines. Grenache-based rosé is one of southern France's signature wine styles. Grenache is typically the dominant grape in red blends with Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault made in France’s southern Rhone region, producing wines as celebrated as C hâteauneuf-du-Pape and accessible as Cotes-du-Rhone.

“With strawberry red fruits, beguiling tannins and spicy aromatics, Grenache wines are seductively enchanting and wonderfully engaging. The perfect wine for a day in, a day out; a night in, a night out.”

— Dean Hewitson, founder of Hewitson wines in Australia

“Grenache is fascinating in its ability to adapt to where and how it’s grown, and to really reflect a sense of place. It’s often used to enhance top blends, like in Chateauneuf du Pape, and it is the basis for most rose’, YET is capable on its own of producing great wines that age beautifully. It’s developing a real cult-following.”

— Nicole Rolet, co-founder of the Association, founder of Chene Bleu wines

Tablas Creek Vineyard Rose 2015 Grenache

Grenache is also one of the most versatile wines to pair with food. Due to its spicyness, pure red fruits, fresh attributes and endless levels of depth and textures, Grenache works well with a diverse line-up of foods.

It pairs perfectly with grilled, stewed and braised meats like beef, veal, pork, chicken and of course game. Grenache holds up well to hearty dishes like cassoulet and it’s a good match for less spicy styles of Asian cooking; however, the spice in Grenache also makes it a perfect pairing buddy to spiced and herb foods including roasted meats, vegetables and many ethnic foods.

Dessert Wine Basics

September 1, 2016 Perry Riddle

In light of last weeks post on Port wines (and decadent dessert pairings), this week we wanted to follow up with some dessert wine basics. There are few pleasures in the wine world as hedonistic as a glass of great dessert wine. Whether it be a honeyed, complex Sauternes or a delicate, frizzante Moscato d’Asti, these wines provide pure guilty pleasure and when considering the work that goes into crafting them, they are some of the most intriguing wines in the world.

Simply put, dessert wines are wines where there is a degree of residual sugar that remains after fermentation. Generally wines in this category have 40 g/L or more of residual sugar and can soar to above 500 g/L in the most concentrated and rich examples. In order to halt fermentation and concentrate sugars and flavors either nature or man must introduce some variable into the winemaking process.

The four most common variables are:

Botrytis
Fortification by neutral spirits
Cold temperatures
Rasinating

If you mention dessert wine to the average wine drinker the first word that will generally come up is Sauternes. This golden elixir hails from the Sauternes region of Bordeaux and is the result of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon grapes affected by the fungus Botrytis cinerea.

Normally this would lead to gray rot, which is a major threat to grapes. However, if the exact right climactic conditions exist Botrytis (or noble rot or pourriture noble in French) has the magical effect of shriveling the grapes and concentrating the sugars to above 100 g/L. The resulting wines are honeyed and incredibly rich and complex. Notes of orange marmalade, pineapple, butterscotch, wildflower honey, and white chocolate ooze out of the glass and the best examples are a mélange of exotic, luscious flavors. These wines are some of the most expensive to produce in the world and in many vintages none are made, so expect to pay a premium for the experience of tasting one. Sauternes from the famous Château d’Yquem regularly fetch some of the highest prices in wine auctions around the world. Recently a half bottle of this wine from the 1811 vintage was sold for over $84,000.00!

Sauternes does not have a monopoly on noble rot though. There are also more reasonable examples in the style of Sauternes produced in the nearby regions of Barsac, Loupiac, Cerons, and Monbazzilac - if you’re lucky enough to find them, since they are rarely exported. There are also very similar examples produced in the United States, Australia, and other new world countries on exceptional sites in exceptional vintages. For other examples in France utilizing different grapes, look to the Loire Valley and Alsace and look for the term Sélection de Grains Noble. In the Loire Valley regions of Bonnezeaux, Quarts de Chaume, and Coteaux du Layon the grape of choice is Chenin Blanc. Noble rot turns this noble variety into a stunning nectar that is at once both viscous and light on its feet. Beautiful flavors of apple, stone fruit, and nuts marry with an intense florality to produce an incredibly rare and long-lived wine.

In Alsace the Sélection de Grains Noble wines lean towards heady and exotic aromas and tropical flavors due to the aromatic varieties grown there: Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Riesling. Expect to smell and taste exotic spices such as ginger, cardamom, nutmeg, white pepper, and allspice paired with flavors of mango, guava, lychee, pineapple, apricot, and quince. Once again expect to pay a premium for the rarity and exceptional experience of these wines.

Moving on to Germany, Austria, and Hungary and the wines that many would argue compete with Sauternes for the title of best dessert wine: Trockenbeerenauslesen and Tokajis. The Trockenbeerenauslesen wines of Germany and Austria are once again are the result of noble rot (Edelfäule) and are stunningly sweet and rich…much sweeter than Sauternes even. The purity and multi-faceted nature of these wines perfectly mirror the fact that they are most commonly made from Riesling.

In Hungary the historic Tokaji wine producers utilize native grape varieties such as Furmint and Hárslevelű to produce regal wines of astounding sweetness and concentration. The highest classification, Eszencia, can have sugar levels up to 900 g/L! King Louis XV famously referred to this wine as “the Wine of Kings, the King of Wines.”

Another method of production for dessert wine involves stopping fermentation by the addition of strong neutral spirits. This process allows for a high alcohol level unlike many other sweet wines and thus is referred to as “fortifying” the wine. Port, Madeira, and Marsala are probably the most famous wines in this category, and due to the complexities and culture of these wines, I’ll save them for their own discussions.

There are several wines produced in the south of France that fall into this category as well. These vins doux naturels are generally lightly fortified and the most famous examples include Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, Banyuls, Rasteau, Maury, and Rivesaltes. Grenache and Muscat are the key players with regards to grape varieties in these categories. The Grenache wines are quite varied and can be made in an oxidized style (rancio) and any range of colors from amber to ruby to almost black. The Muscats retain the aromatic character of the grape and are quite intense in flavor and aroma.

Icewine (Eiswein in German) is one of the rarest dessert wines. Grapes must be exposed to a hard freeze in order to freeze the water in the grapes. This process greatly concentrates the juice and reduces the amount of juice in each grape to mere drops. This stingy return paired with the fact that the grapes must be precariously left on the vines until sometimes after the new year often results in outrageous prices, but with sugar levels usually over 200 g/L one doesn’t need much of this treasure!

Germany is the spiritual home of icewine but Canada and increasingly New York also claim some exemplary examples. And while Riesling is the still the king of icewine, other traditional grapes such as Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay and hybrid grapes such as Vidal and Sevyal Blanc make convincing examples as well. Icewines can be surprising refreshing due to the exceptionally high level of acid that deftly balances the high sugar levels.

Finally, dessert wines can be produced by the process of drying and rasinating grapes either on the vine or after harvest. Perhaps the most famous example of this style is the straw wine (passito in Italian) Vin Santo from Tuscany. Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes are laid out on straw mats or hung in the rafters of the attics of wineries in Tuscany to produce a wine that is redolent of hazelnuts, toffee, nuts, and dried apricots. A similar method is employed in the Veneto to produce Recioto della Valpolicella, a velvety red dessert wine.

In Alsace the best plots are allowed to hang on the vine as long as nature allows to produce the exceptional vendanges tardives (late harvest) wines. These wines are concentrated and rich but are not cloyingly sweet. In the Loire Valley, this method is practiced as well with Chenin Blanc. One sees this method also used in the new world. Vin de Constance from South Africa is a notable historical example that has recently been revived.

Food Pairing

The general rule to follow when pairing sweet wines with desserts is that the wine must be sweeter than the accompanying dessert. The red dessert wines are great partners for berry desserts or chocolate desserts (they pair similarly to ruby or vintage ports). Riesling, Chenin Blanc, and Alsace varieties often pair well with apple and stone fruit desserts, while the more aromatic varieties (Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris) are beautiful partners to tropical fruit or exotically spiced desserts. For caramel, butterscotch, or nut-based desserts turn to Vin Santo or an amber Rivesaltes. Sauternes can often be challenging to pair with desserts but is a classic partner for foie gras.

Indeed many of these wines make beautiful pairings for rich savory foods with sweet elements or for ethnic cuisines such as Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Indian, or Middle Eastern. Don’t miss trying a classic duck l’orange with a smoky, sweet Pinot Gris vendanges tardives from Alsace! However, these gorgeous wines can stand on their own and be enjoyed as dessert in a glass.

Vineyard Pests and Pestilences

August 8, 2016 Perry Riddle

Mother Nature is rarely a predictable force, and that adage certainly holds true for winemakers. Beyond the travails of adverse weather, erosion, and climate change, there are myriad fauna and diseases that pose great risks for vineyards.

Discussed below are several of the most common, and problematic, pests and diseases in the vineyard.

Phylloxera

Perhaps the most infamous pest is the tiny aphid-like insect, phylloxera. Phylloxera wreaks havoc by:

attacking the root system of a grapevine,
cutting off the flow of water and nutrients,
eventually killing the vine.

In the late 1800s this tiny terror was transported to Europe from North America by well-meaning botanists interested in native American plants. Within 30 years, phylloxera had spread across Europe and devasted the non-resistant vitis vinifera grapevines planted there. Many researchers estimate that up to 90% of vineyards were destroyed during this time. Thankfully, at the end of the century scientists discovered that grafting vitis vinifera onto the naturally resistant rootstock of native American grape varieties stopped the spread of this plant lice.

While this method has remained largely successful for 100+ years, phylloxera still rears its ugly head occasionally, such as in California in the late 1980s. Researchers are continually developing new, more effective rootstocks to hopefully outmaneuver this tricky aphid once and for all.

Xylella Fastidiosa

Another family of insects, the sharpshooters, poses a great threat to grapevines as a primary vector of the bacteria, Xylella fastidiosa, which leads to Pierce’s Disease.

This bacterium causes a gel to form in the xylem of the vine, preventing water from being distributed throughout the plant. The resulting Pierce’s Diseases causes hydric stress, which can kill the vine in 1-3 years.

While the disease is endemic in northern California, it became a serious threat throughout the state with the discovery of the glassy-winged sharpshooter (native to the southeastern United States) in southern California in the 1990s. This species of sharpshooter has proved a much more effective transmitter of the baceterium than other native species. The wine industry of California’s South Coast was especially ravaged by Pierce’s Disease in the 1990s. Research has focused on breeding resistance into grapevines utilizing naturally resistant species of Muscadine grapes.

Oidium

Powdery Mildew or oidium is one of the most widespread fungal diseases of grapevines in the world. Caused by the fungus Uncinula necator, Powdery Mildew manifests itself as a grey-white powdery substance covering the vine. If untreated, there is the risk of serious crop loss and impairment of quality in the resulting wines. Fungicides and sulphur treatments are very effective against Powdery Mildew and planting vineyards in areas that allow maximum aeration is key to resistance.

Botrytis Cinerea

Finally, and perhaps the most intriguing of grape maladies, is infection by the fungus Botrytis cinerea.

In very wet conditions, botrytis presents itself as the devastating grey rot, which generally compromises the grape cluster.
However, if dry conditions follow wet conditions botrytis can have the magical effect of removing water from the grapes, resulting in some of the most legendary of all dessert wines, such as Sauternes from Bordeaux and Germany’s Trockenbeerenausleses.

Today in the viticultural world we are seeing an increased focus on organic and biodynamic practices resulting in stronger, more resistant vines. These practices combined with ongoing research promise a bright future for wine. However, in the end Mother Nature will continue to keep winemakers on their toes as she has throughout history.

Photo Credit // Here, Here, Here & Here.

Chenin Blanc The Chameleon

July 19, 2016 Vineyard Brands

It is rare to encounter a varietal that arouses such strong emotions as Chenin Blanc.

According to Jancis Robinson, this grape leads a “double life,” producing ethereal, gossamer dessert wines in the Loire Valley regions of Quarts de Chaume and Bonnezeaux, but also producing gallon upon gallon of what best can be described as “plonk” in many wine wastelands.

Perhaps, though, the most important style to be familiar with lies somewhere between these two extremes.

The most important characteristic of Chenin Blanc is its extremely high acidity:

If harvested too early, wine writer Oz Clarke describes the resulting wine as “one of the nastiest wines possible.” It is also very reflective of the terroir and climate in which is planted.

In cooler climates the wines tend to show apple, honey, and floral qualities, whereas in warmer climates more tropical notes begin to emerge. Crop yield must be carefully managed as well. Only when all of the above elements are balanced and harmonious does the true noble character of the varietal really reveal itself.

The first order of business when purchasing a bottle of Chenin Blanc is the question of sweetness.

Chenin Blanc Loire Valley Sweetness Chart

As the varietal is highly acidic, a degree of residual sugar is often a welcome addition to balance the rapier texture. Starting with the grape’s ancestral home in the central Loire Valley, it is safe to assume that wines coming from the appellations of Quarts de Chaume, Bonnezeaux, and Coteaux du Layon will be dessert styles. These late harvest or botrytised styles are rich, honeyed, extremely long-lived, and exceptionally rare.

Moving into Savennières, there is less fog to encourage botrytis development, so the wines are generally dry. These wines have been called by many the most cerebral wines in the world and require cellaring to express their myriad aromas and flavors.

Anjou, Crémant de Loire, Coteaux de l’Aubance, Jasnières, Montlouis, Saumur, and Vouvray present much more of a problem in terms of classifiction. These wines run the gamut of styles from dry to dessert styles, and in Saumur one finds exciting, brisk sparkling versions.

Vouvray perhaps presents the most variety of styles. Look for clues on the label such as the terms sec (dry) or moelleux (sweet). The term sec tendre also bears mention: these lightly sweet wines often are beautiful partners to ethnic foods or gently sweet dishes at the table.

Moving to the Languedoc in the south of France, Chenin Blanc tends to be made in a dry style owing to the ample sunshine and Mediterranean climate.

In the New World, Chenin Blanc is most associated with South Africa. Indeed, there is nearly twice the amount of Chenin Blanc (or Steen as it might be called) planted here today as there is in France. In recent years there has been a renaissance of quality bottlings of this cultivar due to many producers focusing more on terroir, experimenting with oak aging, utilizing old vine plantings, and relying less on high yields. In quality bottlings one will generally find dry, fresh renditions, and now many top producers are making complex versions that can age many years.

In the United States, Chenin Blanc has largely been relegated to the role of workhorse, and most people view the resulting wines as insipid and uninspiring. However, today there are many new producers that are producing interesting, high quality wines. Look for single vineyard designations on the label and expect to pay a few more dollars. Needless to say, these wines will repay the investment in terms of enjoyment.

Pairing Chenin Blanc with food:

The dessert styles are gorgeous partners to foie-gras and apple desserts.
Off-dry versions complement sweet and sour-type dishes or many ethnic cuisines.
The dry, fresh, and fruity New World styles are great choices for vegetarian fare
Richer oaked styles work well with poultry in cream-based sauces or triple-cream cheeses.

Making History with Berene Sauls

July 12, 2016 Caroline Shook

Berene Sauls of Hamilton Russell Vineyards has exceeded all expectations with her first release of Tesselaarsdal Pinot Noir 2015. This is a breakthrough in more ways than one. A first wine for Sauls, but also the first wine project wholly owned by an individual from the historically disadvantaged community in the Hemel-en-Aarde area.

From au pair to export manager to winemaker, Berene Sauls of Hamilton Russell Vineyards is dazzling the South African wine scene with the release of her own label, Tesselaarsdal. Below, she shares some of her inspirations, motivations and future plans for the wine.

Vineyard Brands is excited to begin working with Berene and her new project with a very small allocation of the 2015 Pinot Noir. We look forward to growing our United States distribution as Tesselaarsdal grows.

What is the significance of the name "Tesselaarsdal"?

I grew up in a small village called Tesselaarsdal situated 24 km North East of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Hermanus in the Overberg region. Tesselaarsdal has a unique history where East India Company settler, Johannes Tesselaar, left his land to his freed slaves to farm upon his death in 1810.

What brought you to Hamilton Russel Winery originally? What factors motivated you to move from the business and export side of wine at Hamilton Russell to bottling your own wine, Tesselaarsdal?

After completing school I initially joined Hamilton Russell Vineyards in February 2001 as an au pair at the age of 19. I soon moved to an administrative position and quickly got involved in the much morecomplicated administration linked to wine exports, labelling as well as warehousing of the estate’s wines.

Experiencing so many aspects of the business already my curiousity turned towards the delicate process from grape to bottle, the very layered wine culture and living the excitement of each harvests.

Fifteen years after starting my career in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Anthony Hamilton Russell offered to assist me with the wonderful opportunity to wholly own my own wine business and join the rest of the Hemel-en-Aarde area as a producer with the expert assistance of Hamilton Russell Vineyards wine maker, Emul Ross and the Hamilton Russell Vineyards’ team.

Are the grapes sourced from this area at all?

Grapes purchases are secured with Babylon Vineyards, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge (unirrigated vineyards) until Tesselaarsdal’s vineyards is secured and ready for harvest.

Why did you choose to work with Pinot Noir for your inaugural bottling?

I will be focussing production on Pinot Noir as our climate and soil type is best suited for this cultivar and named my wine Tesselaarsdal, honouring my history and continuing my family legacy.

What are your future plans for Tesselaarsdal? Do you want to remain a Pinot Noir specialist or work with any of the other exciting up and coming grape varietals in South Africa?

Going forward I would definitely be interested in producing Chardonnay as well which would either be from Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge or Overberg region.

Besides Tesselaarsdal and Hamilton Russell, what wines have influenced your winemaking? Do you have a favorite wine region outside of South Africa?

We often reference to Burgundy and I suppose my palate is very much shaped by these great wines. I love the diversity of wines in South Africa, am particularly fond of Pinot noir produced in our area, but have been following the production of new wave Pinotage in South Africa with great interest.

How has the project been received in South Africa? I've seen the excellent press from Greg Sherwood, MW and winemag.co.za.

I am humbled at the ratings Tesselaarsdal Pinot noir 2015 has already received. Christian Eedes from Wine Magazine scored it 91/100 and Jamie Goode reviewed it and scored it 94/100.

““Next South African Pinot noir icon.” ”

— Master of Wine Greg Sherwood

““The wine is looking beautiful, even in the short time since we first tasted it it’s taken on a bit of weight and shows a lovely balance between power, freshness and spice. it’s a great effort ……” ”

— Damon Quinlan of SWIG.co.uk

“Aromatic and fine with lovely sweet red cherry fruit, white pepper and a hint of ginger on the nose. The palate is silky and fine with supple red cherry fruit. Such elegance, showing good structure and acidity. A brilliant debut vintage and it should age nicely, too. 94/100”

— Jamie Goode

I'm honoured to have it listed at some of South Africa’s top restaurants such La Colombe, Greenhouse, Aubergine and Overture.

Decanter World Wine Awards 2016

June 17, 2016 Caroline Shook

The Decanter World Wine Awards is an exciting time for any and every wine producer. Thousands of wines are submitted for judging and must withstand a tough preliminary assessment before they can move onto the official stages. Each wine is tasted blind by a panel of specialists including 69 Masters of Wine and 26 Master Sommeliers.

Out of the 16,000 wines submitted, our wineries were honored with over 50 medals. We are especially proud of Cono Sur for taking home Best In Show along with 19 other awards. The following wineries recieved awards/medals at the DWWA:

The process is a difficult and selective one, so taking home any awards or medals is a high honor. Gold medal winners go forward to compete against others in their region for a platinum medal, but gold winners are also re-tasted and have the chance of being downgraded.

If a wine is selected as platinum, it then goes through a special blind tasting and has the potential to be chosen as platinum - best in show. This final blind tasting involves both Steven Spurrier, the chair of DWWA, and guest vice chair Gerard Basset OBE MW MS.

“Each wine is a year of someone’s hard work and so it is very important to allow time to appreciate and discuss the wine for an award. ”

— Sarah Kemp, Decanter’s managing director.

We are honored and excited to see so many of our wonderful wineries medaled on this coveted list.

Not Your Typical Wine Dinner

June 6, 2016 Vineyard Brands

Guest post by Patrick Harney - Sales Manager DC, MD, DE

As I planned for Maria Innocenti’s visit to the Baltimore market not long ago, I was hesitant to set up yet another wine dinner. They occur far too often in our market and it goes without saying that the consumers often grow weary of them resulting in poor turnouts and lackluster sales as a result.

Something different needed to be done.

Luckily, a crazy chef-friend of mine, Jerry Pellegrino, had just opened up a cooking school named Schola with partner, Amy von Lange, the not so crazy part of the duo who keeps things organized.

The cooking school is located in a townhouse in the Mount Vernon neighborhood of Baltimore. A few blocks away is nice little wine shop named Spirits of Mt. Vernon run by Vicky Schassler, the unofficial mayor of Mt. Vernon.

Schola’s motto is: “Because the party always ends up in the kitchen…”

The plan was to conduct a cooking class featuring the Cuisine of Argentina using the wines of Angulo Innocenti.

With a date set, Vicky sent word to her customers about the upcoming class. It sold out in 4 hours. Jerry asked if Maria could send some family recipes for some of the menu items. Maria sent a terrific recipe for Empanadas which were a staple during her Sunday family dinners. Things were starting to get interesting.

On the evening of the event, guests arrived and the corks on bottles of Alma Negra Sparkling Brut started to pop. Jerry brought the group together to give us a rundown on how the evening would shape up: The group was to divide into smaller groups assigned to preparing different parts of the meal, this would take about 1-1 1/2 hours.

After prepping the double cut Ribeyes and smashed potatoes would go into the oven and the prep tables would be cleaned up and set for dinner.

Needles to say the evening was a blast. We all donned aprons, washed our hands, pulled corks on the Angulo Innocenti Malbec and Cabernet and set to work. Most of us got to the task of rolling Empanada dough while preparing the filling and then folding them.

Maria was a terrific instructor and moved about the kitchen showing guests the finer points of making the Empanadas and answering questions about her wines. Others worked on a rub for the Ribeyes while a few guests were just content to sip on wine and chat.

It was amazing sipping on the savory flavors of the Malbec and Cabernet while the aromas of roasting Empanadas and Ribeyes wafted through the kitchen. One doesn’t get that experience sitting in the dining room of a restaurant.

Jerry and Amy worked behind the scenes doing the heavy lifting to make sure all parts of the meal were coordinated. Magically, everything came out of the ovens perfectly cooked as the kitchen had transformed into an elegant dining room.

Bottles of the ’10 Unisono were opened and everyone sat with their newfound friends and cooking partners to a magnificent meal. Maria spoke a bit about her family’s estate and the guests by then felt as if they were members of the Innocenti family. While a ton of wine was sold as a result, more importantly, we all enjoyed a wonderful experience and learned a thing or two about cooking.

Tablas Creek Wine Dinner at OvenBird

May 27, 2016 Elizabeth Yontz

Tablas Creek Wine Dinner Ovenbird Birmingham Alabama

There are many reasons I take pride in calling Birmingham, Alabama my home: the people, the city, the southern vibe, but mainly… the FOOD.

I recently had the opportunity to enjoy a six course wine dinner alongside Greg Doody, Vineyard Brand's president and CEO, at one of Birmingham’s greatest gems: OvenBird. If you’ve never dined at OvenBird… I feel sorry for you. So deeply, terribly sorry. Dramatic? Maybe. Truthful? Absolutely.

Tablas Creek Vineyard Wine Dinner OvenBird Birmingham Alabama

Anyone involved with or interested in the Alabama food scene will tell you that Chef Chris Hastings is a local (and national) food legend. I mean, the guy took down Bobby Flay on Iron Chef...

#Winning… Literally.

Chris is owner of Hot & Hot Fish Club in Birmingham, and now OvenBird at Pepper Place. The food, atmosphere and service all exceeded my expectations. Paired with each delectable dish was an elegant wine from Tablas Creek Vineyard, and judging by the reactions, comments and empty glasses around me, it was obvious Tablas Creek did not disappoint one bit.

The first dish was a beef empanada paired with a crisp and refreshing 2015 Patelin de Tablas Rosé. The rosé offered a rich texture with vibrant flavors. After the thirty seconds it took me to consume this dish, my first thought was, “If this is a foreshadowing of how the rest of the night will go, I don’t want to leave. Can I sleep here?” Unfortunately they close at 11. So no, you can’t.

The second dish was a strawberry and beet salad with goat cheese and benne seed crumble.

UMMM, can I eat this everyday for the rest of my life!?

It was such an interesting flavor combination, yet it worked incredibly well. We’re talkin’ please look away so I can lick the bowl... that kinda incredible.

Paired alongside this dish was the 2014 Patelin de Tablas Blanc. This was also probably my favorite wine of the night.

I’m not a huge white wine girl. (shocking, right?) I grew up with a dad who drank/drinks cabernet sauvignon religiously; therefore, you will most likely find me with red wine stained lips. BUT YALL. This wine was dangerously good.

The Patelin de Tablas Blanc was lush and supple with exotic flavors in the tradition of a rhone white. I definitely made a mental note to remember this wine.

Tablas Creek Vineyard OvenBird Birmingham Alabama

The third course included charred asparagus, pickled onion, brown butter, almond, and cured duck egg. I didn’t read the description until it had already disappeared from my plate (whoops), but I found it to be the most beautiful presentation of the night and perfect for spring.

To match the asparagus, Tablas Creek Vineyard paired their 2013 Espirit de Tablas Blanc. Asparagus is very difficult to pair with, but the Esprit de Tablas Blanc worked surprisingly well due to its freshness and vitality . It offered a rich, complex texture that needs time to reveal its true essence.

Course four – bring on the reds. The first red wine of the night, 2013 Patelin de Tablas, was brought out alongside grilled octopus and potatoes. This red wine girl could not have been more pleased. The wine was fresh and lively with a real focus on the fruit.

“Excuse me, sir, can you repeat dishes? Can I have this whole combo again instead of dessert? No? Ok…” – The conversation that went down in my head.

Dish number five included boudin rouge, arugula, crawfish and a creamy sauce. This was the most hearty dish of the night and was paired with the 2013 Espirit de Tablas Rouge.

In my opinion...

“this wine reveals a deep ruby color to go with lots of kirsch, black cherries, rose petal and underbrush. Full-bodied, nicely concentrated, with solid mid-palate depth and a great texture, it should drink nicely on release and keep for a decade or more.”

..JK that was Robert Parker. Did I fool you?

In all seriousness, the wine was deep and meaty in the true tradition of beaucastel. I couldn’t choose a favorite red between the two, so naturally I decided I’d just take a bottle of both. Why do you do this to me Tablas Creek Vineyard, WHYY!?

Saving the best for last: 2014 Vin de Paille Sacrerouge, beignets, Mahon Cheese with orange marmalade and Pana Cotta with berries. This wine is a wonderful alternative to a ruby port -- being lush and expansive with a distinct spiciness.

The fact that Darren Delmore, Tablas Creek Vineyard's national sales manager, brought out a special wine just for the event showed his true passion and care for his consumers. Both Tablas Creek Vineyard and OvenBird ended on a strong note with this final pairing.

Soooo who wants to go back with me!?

Wine Serving 101: Temperature

May 23, 2016 Vineyard Brands

Generally

It is well-known that the ideal temperature for storing wine is 55°F or 13°C. What is a little less well-known is that there are ideal temperatures for serving wine also, but it varies according to the wine.

If you serve a wine too cool, the flavors of the wine will be hidden. If you serve a wine too hot, the alcohol becomes the predominant feature of the wine.

Ideal Temperatures

Below is a chart displaying the ideal serving temperatures for various types of wine along with some other common temperatures for reference. These temperatures are guidelines, not hard and fast rules. However, there are two things to note:

No wines should be served at room temperature, as it’s too hot.
No wine should be served directly from the refrigerator, as it’s too cold.

What It Preserves

Serving light, dry white wines and rosés at the appropriate temperature preserves their freshness and fruitiness. Serving sparkling wines at the correct temperature not only preserves their freshness, but also helps maintain more delicate bubbles.

Because sweetness is accentuated with warmer temperatures, chilling a white dessert wine helps preserve its balance without subduing its rich aromas.

Westchester Magazine's Wine and Food Festival 2016

May 17, 2016 Caroline Shook

Food & wine lovers rejoice!

There’s even more to love this year at the 6th annual Wine and Food Festival.

(Yeah… we didn’t think it was possible, either.)

This year’s event will feature more than 200 wines & spirits, celebrity chef demonstrations, NBC TODAY show personalities, dinners, tastings and the Party Line Connoisseurs Tent. The tent will hold exclusive tastings of the finest world-class wines and top restaurants, and Vineyard Brands is lucky enough to be a part of the action!

On our list to pour:

Miraval Cotes de Provence Rose 2015
Tinto Negro UCO Valley Malbec 2013
Mohua Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Marques de Caceres Reserva 2010
Perrin Cotes du Rhone Villages 2013

Perrin Miraval Côtes de Provence Rosé Bottle_with reflection.jpg

Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc Bottle.jpg

Famille_Perrin Crus Côtes du Rhône Villages Bottle.jpg

“As our signature event, The Grand Tasting Village continues to grow and gets better and better each year,” said Westchester Magazine Publisher Ralph Martinelli. “The Party Line Connoisseurs Tent adds a hint of exclusivity and the celebrity chef demos help our food-loving crowd out in their own kitchens, as they learn tips and tricks from the very best chefs.”

— westchestermagazine.com

The festival will take place from Wednesday, June 8th until Saturday, June 11th and is expecting over 5,000 people. Who wouldn’t want to be a part of the action? It is truly an experience unlike any other.

Saturday, June 11, 2016 - Grand Tasting Village

The World’s Fair of the Wine & Food Festival, the Grand Tasting Village celebrates of the quality, uniqueness and innovation that define the County’s food and wine scene.

Location: Kensico Dam Plaza
Time: 12pm-5pm
Tickets: $75
Connoisseur Ticket: $125 (includes admission to the Grand Tasting Village and the exclusive Connoisseur Tent featuring rare, high-end wine and food)

Westchester Magazine’s Wine and Food Week has been organized to promote and support the Friends of Westchester County Parks Department and the Food Bank For Westchester not-for- profit organizations.

Producer Spotlight: Massolino

May 7, 2016 Caroline Shook

History

The history of the Massolinos and their wine became entwined with the history of Serralunga d’Alba in 1896, when Giovanni founded the Estate. Giovanni was the very first person to bring electricity to the village. An enterprising, tenacious and creative man, progenitor of a family that has made the combination of inspiration and tradition something to be proud of.

Family

The first wine cellar was built by Giuseppe, son of the founder Giovanni, who, together with his sister Angela, extended his estate into the best soils and, in 1934, was one of the founders of the Consortium for the Defence of Barolo and Barbaresco. At that time, Giuseppe had six children. Three of them, Giovanni, Camilla and Renato, followed in their father’s footsteps, expanding the estate with the purchase of cru vineyards which are authentic jewels: Margheria, Parafada and Vigna Rionda.

Philosophy

Making wine with passion, in its land of origin, preserving the typical characteristics of the autochthonous grape varieties, being convinced that there is a deep and tangible link between the vines, hills and winegrowers, made up of affinities cemented, by habit, to the land. Since 1896, the Massolino family has been making wine this way, loyal to this philosophy and to the capacity for innovation in the name of tradition. In short, loyal to itself.

Vineyards

Massolino wines are the result of a privileged relationship with the vineyard, interpreting all its peculiarities and nuances. A relationship built up day by day, personally supervising every moment in the production chain in all 23 hectares of the estate. From the vineyard to the cellar, from the vine to the bottle.

Margheria
- 1.5 hectares
- One of the most important and famous cru vineyards of Serralunga, purchased by the Massolino family towards the end of the 1970s
- Calcareous soil with a good percentage of sand, adding elegance, mineral and spicy notes to the wine.
Parafada
- Located in the municipality of Serralunga d’Alba
- 1.13 hectares
- Soil: marly lime
Vigna Rionda
- 2.3 hectares
- Soil: Marly lime
Parussi
- Located in Castiglione Falletto
- 1.3 hectares

Weekly Review: May 6, 2016

May 6, 2016 Caroline Shook

DomaineWeinbach Gewurtztraminer Cuvee Theo 2013

Famille Perrin Domaine du Clos des Tourelles Gigondas 2014

Three Bridges Botrytis Semillon Riverina 2013

Nicolas Perrin Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2014

2004 Salon Blanc de Blancs Release

May 5, 2016 Caroline Shook

Champagne Salon: Gran Vin With Bubbles

This year's importer's meeting for Champagne Salon & Champagne Delamotte was held in Kyoto, Japan. Our President and CEO, Greg Doody, had the honor of attending the event along with Salon's importers from 19 other countries.

The three day meeting consisted of delicious wine, gorgeous views and a lot of anticipation for the 2004 vintage release.

Ever since its founding, Salon has been served in the world’s most renowned establishments, including the legendary Maxim’s, which made Salon its house Champagne in the 1920’s.

To this day, Salon only produces one wine, a Blanc de Blancs, from a one-hectare parcel owned by Salon, “Salon’s garden,” and from 19 other smaller parcels in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger chosen by Aimé Salon at the beginning of the 20th century.

Salon is rare on all counts:

Always a single harvest
Single cru
Single grape variety
& only produced in exceptional years when the grapes contain the ideal combination of richness of fruit, sugar and acidity.

In the 20th century, only 37 vintages were declared at Salon.

The wines are cellared in the bottle for an average of 10 years, gaining in complexity and finesse. There is, therefore, just over 12 years stock in the chalk cellars at Salon.

At each step of production of Salon, it is a conscious decision to be the best, the most beautiful and the rarest, that allows fervent admirers of Salon to taste a perfectly balanced Champagne, with rich and complex aromas.

One can always find nuts, citrus, floral tones, minerals, sometimes smoky, sometimes doughy, according to its age, time, length on the palate and fine, persistent mousse. It is easily compared in its fullness and richness to the great wines of Burgundy.

This is what makes Salon unique: simply put, it is a grand vin...with bubbles.

2004 Vintage: The Serenity Vintage

The 2004 vintage is only the 39th vintage released by Champagne Salon. The 2004 vintage displays all of the qualities expected of Salon: complexity, purity and freshness.

But beyond this, there is a sense of serenity, promising many years of anticipation before the wine reaches its ineffable peak.

The intense freshness and minerality do not belie the wine's aromatic promise. Taut and edgy in the mouth, the wine is all purity and fine acidity. This great white wine, even now in its youth, gives a glimpse of Chardonnay's rich potential with its brioche, warm bread and fresh yeast character.

Salon 2004 is an exquisite testament to a stunning vintage and one that will stay with us long into the future.

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